The one hundred thousand ways to make a Momo
I ran down the line of officers at their little desks and stopped at one and flashed my pic of 'the Mother' - he flashed his - why did I choose him - don't know but we were through in no time after I told him we were to make a film for her. Blown away was Sheldon!
Sheldon and Diane Rochlin.
I had a fright or two - my new starchy muslin saree fell off in Conaught Square and I clutched Angus' arm as a man haemorridged in front of me. You have to get used to eaters of 'pan' in India. A delicious meal in the Tantric gallery where all my spray paintings were sold - so Angus was right to bring them. Nice to have rupees in hand.
Fly on to Madras and amazing South India displayed herself - all hot and juicy. Sultry music by a wide slow river in a vast white house with wide, cool, street sized verandas all round. Fresh lime soda - curry everything they do - one did not know what one was eating and my stomach soon gave out.
A taxi like a saloon car with curtains - The Ambassador - best ride on the Royal Road yr Ladyship! Excepting the Pumpkin (ritual).

Pondicherry all white and grand. We were provided with a charming Indian house. White marble floors, and ceiling fans instead of punkahs,

one could be forgiven this wry thought for so much had not moved on from the French Occupation time. In the airy house Sheldon, Angus and I unpacked the equipment, Diane was in Auroville. This was what we had come to film - The Mother and Sri Aurobindo's dream town built like a spiral nebula whirling around the Matrimandir.
Of course when we arrived this divine vision had not yet taken place. Dotted around a red desert, crossed by deep canyons, were kit and bamboo huts in small groups - some had names - Forecomers was our favourite - free souls there, and planning to grow trees there again. Already sprouts in boxes - it would be long, but before it had been a mahogany forest, descimated by victorian wardrobes. Now - firstly plant cooch grass - like that found on sand dunes - this will bind the top soil and prevent still more erosion, then the neem trees which grow very fast and could be found nearby. Also providing the support poles for the kit (palm leaves) and bamboo dwellings.

As to the Matrimandir -


Mother in Japan.- that strange woman - was she a hypnotist? The first time I met her she sat at the end of a vast Saxon Moot hall - but it was really her cluttered room which we shot one evening , as part of the film and asked if we could include her - she nodded away and away we went - just panning for a quick moment. Well - when we arrived home and played it back - she wasn't there. We checked again and again but to no avail - just a blank spot. The technology was so new we could not insert nor edit things so had to be right first go. She also showed another skill - we made her a tape and began with a bell and a little silence - to get this we had to record at night and still there was a dog barking distantly, which we left. One morning I was in the library having breakfast with the german librarian when some items were delivered from the Mother - amongst them was our tape - so we played it. Now - Mother played the harmonium in a very unique way, only she played like that - no mistake - and there, in our silence was her music, but the dog was still barking. Impossible.

So I went on marching from shoot to shoot, carrying the heavy recording pack - when I was not carrying heavy and earth laden pans! Nowadays I do not remember the finished film - but it was. I developed excruciating piles and cycling out to Auroville and back was becoming close to torture until someone said to go and see a homeopath called Dr Hadjari. He had been close to Sri Aurobindo - been to prison with him which was why they fled to French Pondichery to escape the Brits. So we went, and met a great man. He had a long snow white beard and hair in a top not - a merry face with really twinkling eyes. He lived always (for he never went out) in a truly Indian house with a stout pillared court yard filled with gaudy plants. Two little old ladies with white hair and sparkiling clean white sarees disperced the remedies. I told him with some embarassment my reason for coming, "Ah yes, incurable disease but I will cure it" - big twinkle.
You know - he did. We went every week to what we called Dr Hadjari's cocktail hour for we received an alcohol drop on our tongue. It ws Aexculus Hip. One day the Mother fave a 'darshan' on a balcony overlooking a narrow street, Sheldon and I were on a roof opposite whilst Angus was down in the crowd with a portable recording devise and Ossian on his tall shoulders. Quite suddenly he was gone and Angus pinned in on all sides by the excited Indian crowd of ardent devotees. At first Angus thought he had slipped down his back and managed one quick difficult look before she appeared and the crowd went mad. Later we searched frantically and finally found him messing with a marked motorbike just round the corner of the Mothers house. We demanded to know what this was all about and he calmy replied that he went to see Mother. Oh right - that makes it three times and that's enough, so I tool the question to Dr Hadjari who was as reassuring as usual. "Oh that is a very simple siddha - child is doing it automatically - must have been great siddi before" - Oh really. "Watch" he smiled as he picke dup the Times of India newspaper lying on his desck and flipped it over. 'WOWWIE - oh stop it Dr Hadjari' - he became an image seen through a glass sheeted with water. "You see, quite simple - bring the boy to me". So i did, and they went behind Dr Hadjari's hovered curtain to the inner sancturn. They returned hand in hand and Ossian never disappeared again. I have long since stopped trying to explain these things.
We often recorded Dr Hadjari AUMing which he did full-heartedly and I accompanied him on a giant South Indian six stringed tanpoura.
We were very absorbed in Sri Aurobindos magnificent translations of the Vedas- those ancient texts as prelevant today as when they were written all those milleniar ago. I include here Angus' wonderful insight - which he called the "The Next Vedas".


Also written by Sri Aurobindo was an epic pem called "Savitri". I was confused as to the exact context, and the meter amused us - so Victorian. However, it was to be staged and we were asked to provide some incidental music and act a little. We did compose the piece I love called the Dance of the Jive, which I think is the soul. Also we did the short-wave mix for this production. I seem to remember doing a kind of dance of the 'seven reject army blankets' (No - no seven veils - all very proper). Right in the middle of this Ira and Petra arrived and we took them to our new home in Auroville. Mother had moved us out to a peanut field which she called Fraternity - it was hot so we built a pyramid, of course we were told it was not suitable, but we were tired of loving on the coromandal coast with a French couple and their two children,

Sheldon had built a large studio just across the feild and we hoped to do film/sound projects there - but slowly the heat or something wore us down and not much was achieved there. One positive occurance was the finding of water - I was sitting facing the sea, we had an unimpeded view with the solitary palm. When suddenly - all chance - instead of the smoldering peanut field - a white marble walkway come wharf with little gaily painted boats tied up and a clump of trees surrounding what looked like a bif house or temple. Along this walked a stout gentleman in white with gold arm bands, a rishi by the looks of him and he pointed and told me to dig there behind our pyramid. Great bamboo poles rigged up with a rock which when pulled up - plunged down, and with this contraption we boned a hole two hundred and dity feet down and came up with water and washed white marble pebbles all the way from the distant hills which had been mountains, the oldest in the world. Our Tamil workers lit a flame which they placed on the first gush - all this I found very beautiful and much to my taste - it was not to last however - for I had a rude awakening.
A concert was held out in Auroville one evening and some boys from the Ashram school came out for it - it went well and they were put up in another palapa building for the night whilst we went back to our pyramid with some friends. The next morning all was a buzz with the story that I had run naked through Auroville and come on to the boys. Angus was furious and did his best to diffuse the situation - to no avail. I had my birthday Darshan with the mother the next day and as I saw with my flowers before her - a woman attendant bent down and told her that I was the person who had caused all that trouble. Mother was supposed to be all seeing so I was not worried by this - she would know it to be untrue - but no - she would not take my flowers and brushed me away. Hurt and totally disillusioned I cried bitterly and yelled "You Hypocrits" at two senior ashramites (Bengalis mostly) who were getting into a large Bentley. Oh what a blow. But our luck held - a friend called Verne whom Ossian lived had just returned from Nepal and she told me that one could get pie there - now we had been living on Ashram food - rice, dhal-curd and a banana - so this was succulant news. Also she told Ossian about a hill crowned with a stupa and covered with monkeys - they call it the Monkey Temple. "Want to go to the Monkey Temple" was his immediate response, and he did not let up for a moment. Then two things happened. Money, quite a lot, all in Indian rupees, and a letter from our old Tangiers friend Paul Gyes - who urged us to come on up, and we did - by train - first class with fans all the way to Delhi and then that memorable flight where the valley opened up all silver and jade.
The 100 thousand ways to make a Momo continued or begun.

I don't remember the airport, only some large oil drums lining the road like sentinels, but past them this magical place unfolded. Green of a hue I had never seen - the vibrant happiness of rice growing in the silver water where the sun glinted off it, and it was everywhere - layer upon layer of glorious jade - big trees in clumps dotted here and there, and amongst them tiled roofs ochre and gold steep, and overhanging pink walls - delicate wooden balconies and peacock framed windows - melons on roofs - corn in eaves and everywhere broadly smiling people - the men wearing oddly shaped cloth hats. 'Hobbits' I crowed - 'it's the shire' - this Tolkein-like trance stayed quite a while - nothing to spoil it.
On sighting the hill of Swayambhu, Ossian jumped and yelled 'Monkey Temple', the driver or our quaint tiger striped taxi smiled and nodded. Ossian wanted to climb up right away - but mundain considerations had to come first.
Where was Paul to be found? where were we to stay? The first was right there - had not changed one jot - and straight up he had us fixed up tights "Go to that white house up there and a tenant is leaving at mid-day". So I did and a chinese lady in sort or maroon drapery said to a girl sitting on the floor - ''this is a great painter.'' Stunned, I enquired how she knew that I painted - never mind all that 'great'. "Oh I own one" and, as a little dog yapped into the room she became recognisable - she had been a frequent visitor to the Jefferson St loft after Roz left. Yes she bought the painting I did in magic Lagonitas, and she was leaving.

Ah! but where was the proverbial fly in the ointment? There had to be one, didn't there.

It was there all right. As I said before, all our money was in Indian rupees - luckily, as it turned out. Angus had insisted on some expenditure in Delhi - a good hotel - cinema - swimming at the Beach candy club - the best food, etc.
Hetty - parsimonious as ever, had reluctantly agreed. She knew that this money was all they had to get up when in Nepal and fly there. However, that been a lovely time and the Tantra Gallery paid her (again in Indian rupees) for the spray paintings. Now came the time for some local currency. Oh! Indian rupees into Nepali rupees. Difficult. Paul sent us off with a young man who spoke english, and seemed friendly and willingly went from one money changer to another. They all shook their heads - only the Nepal Bank they said - so we went there. He said it would be best if we did not come in, this kind of transaction was not allowed for Ingis (westerners). After all the negative hassle we had been through, we believed it! We watched him in the dim interior from the steps, of course the vivid passing crowd and fantastic architexture did at one point make us waver in our dillegence. I realised that he really was taking his time - but things took time in the east. Sudden interior lurch - danger - jumping up we charged through that Bank and sure enough a wide back door and the lad had vanished, with all our money - $200 in fact.
Back in Swayambhu, consternation burned and Paul was consumed with guilt and a lot of people all accusing him "You sent them with Bombay Barry?" - so not even Nepali - a simple job fr him. Hippies rushed to the bus station and even went to the nearest border check point. To no avail. We had no money - none. I went up the hill by myself and sat down on a white welcoming plinth (it was one of many small stupas). A large man in monks atire approached me - would I buy a raffle ticket? How hilarious - I, - gasping with laughter, told him I had no money - "but you are very happy" he insisted smilingly. I then realised that in spite of being totally broke I was - deliriously happy. I think he asked why and I just waved my arms around and implied, all of this.
It was amazing, how kind everyone was, people becoming real friends and giving twenty rupee notes - Paul saying - no rent. More and more - o.k we could no longer look for and furbish our little house, so we stayed in the white house - but I went up the hill every day. Early on one day I heard a sound that made every nerve tingle - a deep oh so satisficingly bass - like several very operatic cows lowing in unison. What was it and where was it coming from - I followed it and it led me to a small building in typical Rana style architecture, beside wide steps a small window opened and in it sat a young Tibetan blowing something - there were steps below this window and I sat down to listen. He blew for a while and stopped, turned and smiled down at me - this was Jagam and he was blowing the long trumpet - the Radong. Of course I did not know this then but never mind, I had been led to the place I had been heading for - probably all my life so far. Sri Karma Raj Maha Vihar. Swayambhu. Kingdom of Nepal.

Ossian was going to a nursery school which taught in English, run by our landlords wide - so Mrs Ratua saw Ossian up the hill in her minibus and he ran straight away to the little gompa - that is what the tibetans called it - 'a quiet place' - it was anything but! Much hussle and bussle round what was a medieval villiage surrounding a wonderful stupa on the top of a green hill planted with medicinal trees. At its foot - the villiage, quite small - the stove on the corner and the Tibetan Cafe -

How encouraging - I had noticed some statues in niches round the walls and some of the younger loads were flinging paint at them all anyhow. So I plucked up courage and spoke to the tall fierce monk

who seemed to be in charge. "I'm a painter and I might be able to do a better job with those staues" I pleaded. Fine - bring your brushes and start tomorrow - how I skipped down the old stone stairs to tell Angus - who laughed and called it my sistine Chapel - my big religious work!
Hardly - but I stuck at it for eight months getting really carried away - stripping all the layers of old house paint, revealing old granite. White them out and glaze the colours on as directed and touched up with real gold leaf - they looked so beautiful.

This gave me time to get to know everyone, and more and more it became clear that part of the answer was in the loose leafed sort of books they read from all the time - so one day I pointed to a pile of them bound by brocade in their wooden covers. "Those" - "Oh kaka" said the monk - what? Another joke to share with Angus, he said kaka - that's shit, hey! How we giggled - what did it mean. His name was Sonam Gyalwa and the head of the monks, Sabchu Rinpoche had told him to teach me to read. Get a note book. O.K.
Several long days went by and then he handed me the book in which he had written some beautiful letters. Help - I had to learn the alphabet. I needed a Tibetan name if I were to start lessons - Hetty was hard for them. I needed them to relate to me and I thought this might help. I said I wanted a name 'Ah Chiap' blimey what now. Turn up at seven tomorrow morning with your son and friend Yvette who was helping with the statues. Annoyed at all this company - after all a native American name giving is a solitary affair, but when in Rome... we arrived, the three of us the next morning in the sunshine.

He proceeded to mouthe some unpronounceable let alone understandable words -throwing rice in the air at intervals as he did so. The sun caught this rice and turned it into golden rain. We repeated our names three times - and to my surprise Ossian, who I had been sure would be three year old impatient etc, spoke clearly and seemed to understand what was happening, he sat quite still, another first, and went forward quickly and surely to Rinpoche to have a little top hair cut - as did we. Then came our names - mine Samtin Drolma (the meditative concentration of the mother of all Buddhas - HELP.) Yvette - Sangmo, she was disappointed - not romantic enough.. big generous woman - which she wan, and all by the family of Karma. Ossian was Karma Tzultrim (the perfection of good moral behaviour). Rinponche said this was half his name, he would get the rest later. Oh? Out with the note book. Why? is it because he is young? NO. Is it because he is male? NO. Do we get outrs later? No again. O.K follow this up some other time - seemed sort of useless to keep questioning this point (of course he did get the second half from Yidshin Norbu Karmapa two years later. Hmm?)
Our good friend Ira Cohen and his lady Petra Voght had arrived all fressed in black, purple and silver. New for Ira! We were delighted, old friends becoming family - one was missing, though our friends Zeena Racheuski and Bill Barker had reunited and had been living in the Kings Astrologers House on Kopan Hill. She goes off to Darjeeling on a visa trip and returns with two Tibetan lamas she had met there. They moved in and after a while Bill moved to Kathmandhu because it was too crowded. She had a dream of a small gathering during the dry season but soon it had become rather more than that. Bill took us there one day and I met a lama in the summer house who asked me where I had been, when I told him he said "Far Out" which floored me and Angus was also floored asleep on Zeenas library floor in the octagonal house, but Bill soon explained that many hipsters from New York had exploded onto the place and Zeena had been banished because she talked too much! I tell you now that that lady was the most fascinating conversationist - totally the best. A silent retreat up in the Solu Khumbu region at a Retré run by Trulchig Rinpoche. He had several hundred monks and anis(nuns), also an old folks home and a place for abandoned mothers and children. There Zeena had built herself a little house. As we had not seen her for some time, Ira and Angus were keen to go and see her. Ossian wanted to go and always good to do something with Dad, so off you go but Hetty stays behind and continues with her studies - she did not fancy the ten thousand foot pass they had to cross on foot in those days just to hit Jumbasi
and more after that. They arrived though and Ossian was immediately surrounded by little chirpy anis and taken into the Gonpa. Ira, Petra and Angus sat with Zeena who broke her silence - she tried but gave up. For three days they talked, there must have been some brilliant conversations but that Angus remembered Ossian and began fussing. 'Leave him' Zeena said, 'he is with Trulchig Rinpoche. Angus was by now anxious to return - the weather might turn nasty - they had chosen november in the Himalayas! Angus and Ossian did indeed get stuck - spent his birthday in a swiss mil farm during a snowstorm. Can you imagine how I felt when Ira and Petra arrived without them - Dread, trepidation, abject terror, dismay, alarm, a total funk. They came through, the joy, and relief was indescribable. Somewhat mitiaged by the horrid state of Ossians long hair. Matted, stiff with dust and lousy. Had to go - I held his hair up and reached for the scissors - it stayed up ridged with clotted earth and sweat. Haha I joked - just like the Buddhas hair!! Chop and he had a ragged Ductch boy bowl cot,, and the lice bites were shocking. What on earth to do? Oh great idea - the monks were used to shaving heads, maybe they could help - I took him up to the warm cosy kitchen presided over by dear Nabchu Kara. They sat him on my lap by the fire, facing me and advanced with a cut throat razor, he did give a little yelp and clutched me - they then so delicately and gently shaved tha tlittle head not nicking scabious bite - amazing, and then a pot of greenish ointment which smelled of new mown grass was gently massaged in. Within two days his head was clean and it was New Year.

During their absence I had been taken to see a formidably bearded gentleman called Chadral Rinpoche-
- or the rock hurling lama. Ask him something I was urged, like what? OH - now why did I vividly remember that strange visitor on Hornby Island? I launched into the story trying to keep it short - the reason? Maybe he could tell me something - he caressed a large string of seedlike beads and told me that he was Chenrezing in the guise of the Tibetan People and I had India - China and Tibet to choose between. Thank you for clearing up that little mystery.Christmas was drawing near when a friend of Angus' Olivia d'Hautville decided to kidnap Ossian, she took him to Kopan, by now not my favourite place, and sent a message for some second hand robes. As if we had them hanging around like oxfam. I was furious and my teahcer Gyalwa worried 0 "Mother one method - son other" - not good and he was ready to go and rescue him. Ossian had the situation in hand however and had done the one thing it seemed they could not handle - he shat his pants. My potty trained son - well well. Our Gonpa would have stuck him under the cold tap (no hot water dear) -and admonished - dirty boy. They were too effite it seemed, luckily, so no angry scenes, just a lot of laughter. Christmas was amazing with several monks helping to decorate the White House - topping the tree with a big Dorje

of course if you have been following this discourse you will have read all this before in the piece called the Namtar of the Wee Lama Boy - but it was just after chistmas that Ossian told me that he had got his memory back up in Solukhumbu. Really - yes and I want to go back to my monastry - what back there - it's December - wait til Spring eh - Tears - oh what's this - he so rarely cried and these were cascading down. Margot and I tried to reason with him but as it was too far to his monastary he would go to Sri Karma Raj Maha Vihar Swayambhu where he had "frendee". So then the whole sharade of my hopeless try on my own. Ha ha. Take him with - of course it seems to be his idea. You know the rest.
For those who only just joined us - he became a monk a week later. Scroll back to Namtar of Wee lama boy.
'Life on the hill of the Self-realised Lord all surrounded by realised trees.'
The fuss died down and as Udze Gigdor had requested to be my childs Gegin, he moved into the tiny room with this super nanny.

I moved out of the comforts of the White house and took up residence in a room the size of a double bed, a carved window looked into the stupas eyes.

Angus had to leave us for a while - a trip to New York to collect a grant and give a couple of readings. We desperately needed the money, so Ossian had to say goodbye to daddy for a while -
but mummy remained.What a happy life, Ossian seemed so content and merry, and I was learning the Tibetan alphabet and beginning to read. I rarely saw anyone to really talk to - my rudimentary Tibetan precluded any gossip - also up there the villiagers spoke Newari (the ancient language of Nepal) as well as Nepali and I spoke neither. I took to casting and I.Ching every night and that was a conversation with Uncle Ching. I was doing well in this tiny old house, part of a medieval ring of houses encircling a beautiful stupa.
High above the Hubub I found I was learning what I had longed for all my life I think. How to live simply and happily, in harmony with everything around me.
One thing did surprise me somewhat, why did so few hippies come up - too stoned out to climb the 365 steps? So when one day a young American came with a tale of woe, wanting my advice - surprise surprise. He took my advice and returned because he had a taste of the Buddha Dharma in California, and needed to know more. This was Dangerous Doctor Dharma Dan.
He became a close confederate, a dear friend to this day, and, lucky me another male being entered my life - this was a young lad of eight called Raj Kumar who had been doing a kind of flunky job with the english lady who had helped untangle Ossian
re the monk trip. She loved to trail around town looking good - her apricot hair and dress sense absolute and had Raj in a sort of uniform carrying her bags. Well one morning he was standing in my doorway asking if he could help me with some shopping - oh bliss - no more carrying up all those steps. I had just procured my first house and had to clear it of bricks and clay butterlamps up the ceiling - I carried basket after basket on my back and tipped them down the hill out back - they were legion and made a terrace indeed - with a small straw and bamboo place to wash - it was lovely and the house was roomy and fresh with whitewash and a hard and new mud floor hardened and polished like red marble. A kitchen and a small downstairs room completed it. I loved it and this was the new view from the front windows.
Uncle Pon's dog Singe Karmo A.K.A Chidle mack weedle mack fee - answered to Chi,
his owl and I moved in and Raj did the shopping. One day he bought the most delicious breakfast tray, tea in pot - toast and guava jelly, a perfectly boiled egg and a vase of flowers. "You like?" he enquired - did I!!
He then enquired if I would like this every day. Well was the sun shining or what? "Of course but you work for Margot" - unwritten law - never steal servants. "Margot she shout at me." Iknew then that he had quietly left her. Nepalis are like that - shout at them and they vanish. So I had Raj to help me and he did. Angus returned with is grant money and as I was already taking little touching objects to town to sell (as monks they could not do this) and I had met a very nice man called Dutch Bob who had a Tibetan Goods Store and was totally straight up with me so it was an easy pleasure, and Angus started the same with one monk who had beautiful striped blankets from Dolpo - they were soft and unique in weave and stitch and their little enterprise was as successful as mine - I add that neither Angus nor I made a penny - at this moment didn't need to - whew - we wondered at the absence of a nice little guide book for the Stupa, there were many tourists asking questions and entertaining all kinds of odd views. So i got my typographers hat out - shook the dust off and put it on. The result was a pocket sized booklet entitled 'on the hill of the self revealed lord' - It cost seven rupees, had one or two tasty adds at the back. A readable text - a good clear map and lovely photographs. I produced the cover as a positive/negative in pink and yellow.


It was so bright and happy, Ira and Petra arriving had been a boost as well and there were many new friends. Kathmandhu was then a thriving yet beautifully untouched place full of smiling people as yet to be disillusioned. Our friend Paul went away and returned with Pip - eighteen, australian and blonde hair to her waist. He left the white house and they moved to the hill opposite, called Saraswati. A tiny valley lay between the two hills and we could call from the back terrace to them. Soon Pip produced Ishtar who looked like a Botichelli angel and toddled over to our gonpa by herself in a pink silk dress. Sabchu Rinpoche was concerned at so young a child alone and asked me - oh her parents live just over there - and he worried us more - so long as you did not tease the monkeys, children were totally safe and the place swarmed with them. Truly a magical domain and it shook or danced as well. As we slept on the floor on matresses we could feel this trembling, was it beneath or within, we could not tell. We learned that it was hollow - filled with rooms of bats and bees - Kings offering to huge Naga's (sacred snakes), naked mystics in perpetual meditation and one room at the bottom was 'emptiness'. T'was said there were passages to Bandha and even to Lhasa. One learns to believe these things there.

We had careful wood blocks made but the inscriptions were too small to cut so Angus typed them and we made a long scroll and inserted them. I had endeavoured to catch the original in these above pictures - no eady feat but as many of Angus' inscriptions overlap the next image. Here it is though. In one you see a tree growing out of the hill and just the other day a visitor who is well aware of the hill noticed at one that night by the steps - there is the tree - I noticed it way back, it is so obious and there is a Nag shrine just on the other side of the steps as shown, so amazing.

We also had the idea to compile a collection of magic and magicians - but where to find them? We took a small holiday to a nearby lake and above it in the surrounding hills was a small sturdy Tibetan villiage where they had a flourishing carpet business, they also had a small stone guest house delightfully placed by the path along which trains or carpet bedecked horses passes tinkling little bells as they went. What a charming spot, and what did that continuous drumming mean? Oh that's Pow Wangchuk, hes our local medicine man. Could we meet him, we enquired causeously - if you have something wrong with you. Oh - Ah my arm - yes - my arm which had been attacked by an angry western girl with red hair over a water dispute - it hurt - pinched nerve I thought. Well he came over, a small brown man with kalidoscopic eyes and a little boy with brown hair and hung with prayer packets. On hearing about my pain he went away and returned with his paraphanalia which consisted of a rainbow fan headdress and a simple coloured shirt with pointy sleeves. He told us that they were only cotton but it was the colour and the cut that mattered. He set up a small shrine and placed his bell and dorge on the front. He then told us his authentication - Guru Rinpoche - (an 9th century Buddhist saint from Swat) had created five lines of Pow or Magic Doctor to directly pass from father to son. Now only two remained, as the chinese had seen fit to eliminate the others - himself and one other now residing in far away Mustang. I requested a surgery and he donned his robes and a red scarf tied pirate like under the headdress. As he put it on he changed - he prayed firstly, then I came forward and he bade me look down his throat - now a long tunnel with a flame at the end - he then began to beat his drum and ring his bell and then flew into the air crosslegged and landed on the otherside of the small room - how amazing was that! By now totally bewitched I was led toward him and he placed a red cloth on my arm and proceeded to suck on my arm through it and snatched off the cloth - opened it - and there was a clump of red hair - just like the hair of my atttacker. There was no mark to my arm and I bruise easily and it no longer tingled all pins and needles. Then he began to shake back and forth rythmically and the red scark slipped down over his eyes and the headdress flew back - neatly caught by the little boy. Once more the small smiling man he requested a class of rakishi (nice brandy) to put the 'blood' back. After one swallow he was ready to be off.













































































































































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